My top five Amish settlements
Who loves rankings? (everyone loves rankings)--today I offer my personal top-five favorite Amish settlements. I hope you'll indulge my self-indulgence for this one day (I've been wanting to do this post for a long long time!). I haven't been everywhere, but of the 17-or-so communities I've visited, these are the ones I would most readily revisit (and do when I can), and why.
1.Daviess County, Indiana--I really love the Amish people down in Daviess County. I love how the settlement feels well off the beaten path, with a minimal tourist industry for a fairly large collection of Amish (toned-down compared to Nappanee, similar-sized, on the opposite end of the state). I loved learning people's nicknames, which was super-important with such high-naming-homogeneity (85% of the people here share just six last names). I got my first taste of Amish peanut butter and first invitation to church here, unsolicited. Very friendly folks. And an odd southern twang to the accent makes a Daviess Amishman easy to spot anywhere outside the settlement.
2.Arthur, Ilinois-- the first Amish settlement I ever happened upon. That's probably a big part of the reason it's number two. Arthur is in many ways a classic Amish community--it's of a size where nearly everyone still sort-of knows everyone else, it still has a fair percentage of farmers yet has embraced the idea of home-based businesses (wood shops flourish here), and has a fairly uniform Ordnung across the settlement. Like the Kalona settlement in Iowa, it is centered around a quaint, smallish town that sort of tries to rev up a tourist industry but doesn't quite get there. All the better for the atmosphere. Click this neat link to learn an interesting fact about the Arthur Amish and vehicles.
3.Holmes County, Ohio-- this would be number one but for nostalgiac reasons giving the top two spots to Arthur and Daviess. Holmes County is in my opinion the most scenically beautiful and interesting of all settlements, with its diversity of Amish population and hilly rural setting. It's touristy, but nothing like Lancaster. I probably know more Amish, better, here than anywhere else. This is where they broke me in, after all.
4.New Wilmington, Pennsylvania--I only visited here a day and an evening, but absolutely loved it. Blue doors, brown buggies.
5.Allen County, Indiana-- A Swiss Amish settlement that is starting to butt heads with a major urban area. Has an interesting charm to it, due to its various 'quirks'. The Allen County Amish are a bit more gruff than those in, say, Daviess County or Elkhart/Lagrange, a bit more wary of outsiders. When you get past the somewhat aloof exterior there are some very nice folks here. The Amish in Allen County only drive open-top buggies and heavily favor building with brick. The settlement has a wealthy feel to it due to that. It doesn't seem to be a facade. The construction business has done very well here. My books also did very well here.
In Allen County, there seems to be an odd mix of rules. Most homes have indoor bathrooms, while a significant number of folks have stuck with outdoor privies. Yet cellphones are prominent. English is creeping in, perhaps a bit too close for comfort. But there is definitely a conservative streak here. These Amish have close ties to the very conservative Swiss group in Adams County, just on the other side of Fort Wayne.
Disclaimer: My comments here are mostly superficial and done in good fun. I've met great folks and enjoyed my time everywhere I've been in Amish America.
But I wonder, what are your favorite Amish settlements and why?
I had never thought of favorites. But I enjoy being around those people in St. Joseph County, Michigan. They are practically my neighbors.
And I enjoy the settlements in western LaGrange county. Maybe those are the people I'd most like to live near. There are some great bicycling places there, too.
But really, I like all of the places. Every last one of them I've visited is a good place for bicycling.
BTW, where in Allen County do Amish people live? I don't think I've ever run across those communities. I'm guessing it's on the west or southwest, because I think I've seen Amish buggies on the road around Huntington. But that's just a guess.
Posted by: John Gorentz | October 23, 2007 at 08:53 PM
I enjoyed your choices. I really can't say I have a favorite having never visited an amish community
Posted by: michelle | October 23, 2007 at 08:59 PM
John,
The town of Grabill, to the northeast of Fort Wayne, is the approximate center of this community. It's about 17 or 19 church districts, but they are big ones, with up to nearly 60 families.
Posted by: Amish America | October 24, 2007 at 05:12 AM
Very cool. Nice to know you think Holmes County is the most scenic. I thought it was very nice when I was there.
Posted by: Rhea | October 24, 2007 at 08:48 AM
I like the New Wilmington and Smicksburg communities in W. PA pretty equally mainly because they're both only a little more than an hour drive from my home. :) Depending where you are in these areas it is possble to drive through and not know you were in "Amish Country" unless you saw the buggy signs on the road or came upon a buggy on the road. For the most part the back roads in these areas tell the tale.
I haven't been in Lancaster County "Amish Country" since I was a kid but this was the first place I ever encountered anything Amish. Holmes County and it's environs is definitely cool and in Geauga County it was neat to see all the buggies at WalMart and to eat breakfast in McDonald's with Amish sitting at the tables around us.
North of New Wilmington, Crawford County PA and Ashtabula County OH also have very sizable Amish populations though I haven't been through there in some time.
These are the only communities I've been to but anytime/anywhere I am in "Amish Country" it's always a treat.
Bill
Posted by: Bill | October 24, 2007 at 03:16 PM
In my list of preference:
1. Salem, Indiana. Home to New Order, Old Order and Church of God, Mennonite groups, these communities are settled in amongst the hills and valleys of Washington County, Indiana. There is very little tourism, but plenty of down-home charm.
2. Milroy, Indiana. We have spent lots of time visiting and talking to members of this settlement, which has over 100 households. While not the most conservative group by outside appearances, they are quite friendly and open in discussing their faith. Covered and Iron Truss bridges abound in this area which is a short drive from Indianapolis.
3. Williamsburg, Indiana. PA Amish transplant group from the late 1980's. Quickly growing - already has 4 schoolhouses. Group uses steel wheeled buggies and PA dress and coverings.
4. Berne, Indiana. Swiss Amish of Berne have a number of small shops you can visit including a bakery, bookstore, and general merchandise store. Plenty to see and do around the town of Berne as well. The Berne group is back-and-forth with the Old Order group in Salem, Indiana. Open air buggies only. Much like Arthur, the town strives to attract tourists, but does not have a touristy feel to it.
5. Calais, Ohio (near Malaga). Located in the southeastern part of the state, near the Ohio river, this settlement boasts incredible scenery. Extremely conservative dress (young females wear black bonnets even during summer) and buggy styles. No shops open to public (that I saw during our visit there a number of years back). Would like to find out more about this group.
Posted by: Matthew | October 25, 2007 at 05:37 AM
Oops. I should have said EASTERN LaGrange county, not western. The people to the east are more conservative yet friendly. The area is not as touristy as the northwestern part of the county.
Posted by: John Gorentz | October 25, 2007 at 07:13 AM
You mention that in Daviess County, Indiana, you were invited to church. Am I correct in assuming that these folks were New Order Amish?
Posted by: David Hathaway | November 04, 2007 at 06:32 AM
Hi David,
I wasn't aware that there are New Order Amish in the Daviess County settlement...this family was Old Order, as far as I know.
Posted by: Amish America | November 04, 2007 at 11:17 AM
Any one have any experience with the Amish in Howard and Miami counties in Indiana?
Reid
Posted by: Reid | December 21, 2007 at 12:26 PM