Amish America

Getting my kicks in Lancaster County, PA

Well, despite the inclement weather, I managed to get up to Lancaster County and to my friends 'Daniel' and 'Mary', where I'll be staying the next few days.  The last hour-and-a-half or so, from the PA line onward, was pretty hairy, as snow and ice accumulation made driving tricky. 

I pulled in late Tuesday night to Daniel's, happy and relieved to see the kitchen gas-lamp still burning.  Daniel sat at the table, playing with the youngest child, a 14-month old girl.  The rest of the tribe, save Mary, were already fast asleep. 

Daniel set me up in the basement, which sounds cold, but is probably the warmest spot in the house--that's where the coal oven resides.  Before hitting the hay, Daniel pointed out the large reserves of canned food the family had been going through that winter. 

Pickled cauliflower, beets, 'snitz', canned meat, and all sorts of home-grown treats lined a full wall of the basement.  Being February, a good chunk of the eatin' had been knocked out already, as evidenced by numerous empty Mason jars, but quite a bit remained.  Good, because I planned to be hungry.

Yesterday morning (Wednesday) my jobs were:  udder-cleaner and silage-sweeper.  I learned that some cows don't like me--or at least cows that haven't gotten a chance to know me, don't like me. 

More than a couple took kicks at my hands as I attempted to 'strip' them.

That sounds more exciting than it is--it's actually something like priming the pump, before the mechanical-suction milkers get put on.  A squeeze or two to get the milk going.  Or actually, I think it's more a pull.  Or maybe a combination of the two.  Daniel's son 'Tim' explained that cows are often a bit jumpy if they don't know you so well.  Well, I aim to make friends this week.  I will learn to strip you, cows.

Today I graduated to manure-sweeping duty, and also got to pass out food to all the hungry cows.  It was nice making them happy.  Some were impatient and tried to steal from the bin. 

While sweeping up manure, members of Daniel's family offered up encouragement.  'It's looking good Erik!', 'You're doing a good job!'  This significantly helped my self-esteem, and for that I am grateful.  If all else fails, at least I know I can sweep manure to a satisfactory level.

Daniel's 8-year-old son 'Elmer' and 12-year-old daughter 'Lizzie' then commandeered me to help out with their respective tasks, feeding the chickens and pigeons, and distributing milk-substitute to the calves. 

The youngest calf, a snow-white fellow just a week old, needed some encouragement.  We had to chase that little guy down and force his head into the bucket.  He really resisted, but once we got it in there, he gulped milk like that was what he'd really wanted to do all along.  Funny approach to eating.  Lizzie, who seems to make a pretty good boss, paid me with a Valentine's Kit-Kat bar after breakfast, saying I did a good job.

After some errands with Daniel, we headed back home and somehow I ended up plastered on the couch for an unplanned hour-and-a-half nap.  The 4am-and-up schedule takes a few days' getting used to.

On rising, I stumbled upstairs to find Mary and 'Bena', the oldest daughter, at work at the kitchen table.  Bena was writing a letter to a friend that had missed a social event the day before. 

Mary was busy at work with her prayer-covering.  She had earlier ironed it, and was now doing what she called petza--pinching, she explained.  This petza process, which requires a pick-like metal tool, apparently helps to maintain the Lancaster prayer-covering's distinctive heart-shape.

'This is probably something new for you,' said Mary.

'I've never worn one of those...yet,'  I replied.

Mary seemed to get a kick out of that. 

Unusual finds at the Amish produce stand

Produce sales have become an important way for many Amish to earn a living.  Some Amish have their own stands which they often operate at the end of the lane.  Even more sell their produce to buyers at local produce auctions.

This has become especially popular in recent years among the Amish of eastern Lagrange County, Indiana, who bring their produce to a specially-built auction center east of Shipshewana.  And of course numerous Amish of 'the Garden Spot of America', Lancaster County, are involved in produce growing, taking their harvests to various auctions around the county.

This is a dashboard shot of my take from an Amish produce stand near Berlin in Holmes County, Ohio, back in September.  Let's have a look as we've got a couple oddities here that you probably won't find at your local Wal-Mart Supercenter.

First, the bursting-at-the-seams 'non-acid' tomato on the lower left.  I received a few of these as a gift from a family in Lancaster County back in August.  She described them as a meatier variety.  I guess they'd be less acidic as well..?  They turned out to be the best type of tomato I've ever eaten--they just seemed to have a richer, heartier taste.  I became an instant fan and began seeking them out when I got to Ohio.  I first found them again at a Swartzentruber produce stand waaaay at the back of a long dirt lane.  I had to eat those right away in the car, apple-style.  Yum.

Next are the so-called 'pear tomatoes' in the middle.  You can't see too well from the photo, but these little guys have a distinct pear shape.  Ahh, here's a better picture:

gstuff.co.nz

A sweet, fun-to-eat variety.  Grape tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, pear tomatoes--I am waiting for the banana tomato.  We'll see if the Amish ag-labs can come up with something like that.

Finally we have what are known as 'ground cherries', aka physalis fruit.  These grow on bush-like plants which I'm guessing is where the name comes from.  You peel back the dried, parchment-like leaves, and inside is a light yellowish-orange fruit, about the same size and texture of a cherry tomato.  Very unusual taste.  I've had the opportunity to try these, or at least a variety of them, as garnish at a couple of fairly fancy dinners here in Krakow, Poland in the last few weeks.  They tasted the same but had longer, already retracted leaves. 

So, I've got my mouth watering now.  Perhaps this post is caused by nostalgia for sunnier times and warmer climes.  I just glanced out the window...looks like we've gotten around a foot of snow in the past 24 hours.  Ack. 

But I'm reminded there is a time and a season for everything,and in this case the season of canned goods is upon us.  Hope everyone is well-stocked.

John Hostetler on Amish food

From Amish Society, Fourth Edition:

'...there are many myths about Amish foods.  There is the legend of "seven sweets and seven sours" on Amish tables.  The only place I have ever eaten seven sweets and sours is in a tourist hotel.  The tourist industry has done well in capitalizing on myths, judging by the number of restaurants that cater to "Amish" foods.  Advertised items such as "Amish soda," "Amish highball," or some kinds of pastries are obviously an outsider's capitalization on the tourists' determination to find something distinctively Amish.  Over fifty "Dutch" restaurants have emerged in some Amish localities.  Mennonite or former Amish persons serve as cooks in these kitchens.  Most outsiders are not able to distinguish between restaurants that serve "real" Amish dishes as oppposed to "fake" ones.'



Amish highball?!?

I say go straight to the source.


I've had the good fortune to share meals with Amish friends a number of times.  Last time was in Ohio at Johnnie and Kathryn's.  On finishing, I told Kathryn, in all sincerity, that what I just ate qualified for meal of the year. 


(Except for every one of yours, Mom, of course!  Especially the spaghetti.  Uhh, I may land in hot water for this one.)

Bonus:  More food!  Sunday snitz pie, Amish ketchup and other condiments, and 'haystacks'.  

Surviving, with help

I just sat down this evening with a beaming blacksmith, a new father of his first little boy after many girls.

I'm doing interviews for a research project/book on Amish businesses.  'Eli', my seventh stop of the day, graciously shared his wisdom with me.

After our short talk I flipped off the voice recorder and we continued chatting over a 9pm black coffee (I've noticed that many Amish prefer coffee black.  Between all the church services and interviews I'm acquiring a taste for it too).

Eli, a hulk of a man with meaty hands that swallow yours when you shake, casually mentioned that he'd survived lymphoma.

 

Chemo was 'a nightmare'.  Eli forced himself to work half his normal schedule the four months the treatment was going on.  He's on his third year of remission, shoeing 10 horses a day.

I asked Eli if he'd ever heard of Lance Armstrong.  He had a vague idea, but not really.  I wasn't surprised.  Eli is a bit of a Lance for his family.

'The man upstairs' as Eli put it, is why he got through.  I have no doubt about that.  Eli's great physical shape and keeping his mind busy with work probably helped enable that too.

Eli's an interesting guy.  He's got lots of stories.  He claims he can blank out the screen of a cheap digital watch by putting it near his body, among other things.  I have no idea on that one. 

In any case I think we'll keep in touch. 

I've got condiments

Amish, at least the ones I run into, always seem to like sharing.  Surprise. 

 

Besides the stick-to-your-ribs meals and cool drinks of water, I always seem to be getting takeaways from Amish friends--homemade wine, books, gourds, inspirational CDs for the car. Yesterday’s haul comes in the middle of canning season, following a bumper crop of tomatoes--a jar each of homemade ketchup and salsa.

 

‘Ervin’, my friend and new condiment supplier, remarked that they did pretty well this year in the tomato department--and would probably have a 2-year ketchup supply because of it--around 90 jars.  Yes, Ervin's wife has been busy.

The salsa, which I’ve tried already, was less spicy on account of their kids not liking it that way, but delicious nonetheless. The ketchup, he explained, would be sweeter than what I’m used to.  When I stopped back today, Ervin added some sandwich spread to my take.  That's the yellowish substance in the photo.

 

Why do the Amish can? ‘It really is cheaper’, explained Ervin. It also reflects a tradition of living off the land. Even with a thriving furniture business that takes up 50+ hours a week, Ervin (or at least his wife) maintains a connection with the life-giving earth. Plus it gives the kids something to stay busy with.

 

A final plus--home grown canned stuff usually tastes a heck of a lot better than Del Monte, doesn't it?

 

That ought to be reason enough.

A special Sunday

I was invited by one of my customers to attend church tomorrow.  We're going to meet at the farm and buggy on over to the neighbor's where it's being held this week.

Church is consistently held at 8, standard time, which these days means 9 am.  I'm looking forward to the fellowship and food.

I asked what to wear--'Amos' suggested regular Sunday attire.  'Unless you want to wear a straw hat!'  Amos' wife Barbie suggested Amish clothes.  Maybe she'll have something ready when I get there.

My High German/PA Dutch training is almost nil, but I'll at least get three hours of exposure tomorrow.  And hopefully another delicious piece of snitz pie.

Stop in for a drink

Snitz pie

The last family I sat down with while selling books here in Lancaster County on Saturday evening made sure I left with a special treat--a slice of what they called 'snitz pie'.  It was a delicious, thick-crusted wedge of apple-buttery goodness and I devoured it at once.  About ten times better than what I've been eating lately anyway!

'Sylvan' and 'Rebecca' had church today at their home, and so all day yesterday and during the previous days they spent time weedwacking, scrubbing, and generally readying the home for a huge influx of guests.  Sylvan mentioned that they have a pretty large church district and so were expecting at least a couple hundred people.  Snitz pie, which Rebecca said is made from dried apples, is one of the things they serve after service on Sundays.

Here's a recipe I found, which I cannot say is exactly what Sylvan and Rebecca gave me, but maybe worth a try--if it turns out half as good it'll still be delicious:

Snitz Pie

1 qt. dried apple slices
1 1/4 cup sugar
pinch of salt
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
3 drops lemon extract
Double Pie Crust


Cover dried apples with water and soak over night. Next day cook apples with water they were soaked in until soft, over low heat.

Preheat oven to 425° F.

Put apples through a ricer along with the juice they were cooked in. Add sugar, salt, cinnamon and lemon extract. Put in unbaked pie crust and add top crust.

Bake at 425 degrees for 15 minutes, then at 375 degrees for 35 minutes or until done.



Bonus: Brad Igou, editor of In their Own Words, explains a bit more about Amish foods at Amish Country News.

Family Time

If you knock on a random door in any of a number of Amish communities across the country, there's a decent chance the home might contain a set of books called the Family Bible Library. 

Originally published in 1971, it is a perennial hit among the Amish, who appreciate the vivid illustrations, easy-to-understand text, and solid scriptural reference.

I'm selling these among the Lancaster Amish this year, as I have in other communities in years past, and it has been a hit here as well.  I happened to get what I believe was my most enthusiastic reception ever yesterday, when one mother nearly shouted when I pulled out a sample book of the set.  'I wish my mother could see this', she said.  'It brings back so many memories'.

Many Amish adults fondly recall using these and other Bible story books during childhood.  I look at Bible story sets like this and others as fulfilling a role for the Amish that television now does for the modern family.  It's a focal point for family time, an activity to share during down time, at the end of the day or on the weekend. 

I realize that's a crass comparison--I doubt there's the same amount of spiritual benefit in the television diet of the typical American family--yet I mean it in the sense of families coming together.  Work, church meals, reading--it's one of those things the Amish do collectively as a form of recreation just as we go to the ballgame or check out Spider-Man 3 on family night out at the cinema.

I feel very fortunate to be able to do this job again this summer.  It has given me a chance to see a cross-section of Amish America and to gain friends and acquaintances whom I'd otherwise have never had. 

At the same time it can be difficult.  The Amish get a lot of salespeople--some unscrupulous and pushy--and in turn some of the Amish can be rude, just like any other people.  When I sell, I am extremely laid-back and non-pushy.  I have a policy of always treating 'no's' the same as the 'yes's'--with courtesy and good humor--but it can still be tough. 

But I feel good knowing that people appreciate what I'm doing.  That more than makes up for the refusals and long hours.  That and everything I get to see and learn.  (A little example--this week I've been on more dairies than in any other community I've visited--Lancaster has a higher percentage of them--and now I know how to pick out a Hereshire cow and how many pounds of milk a milk truck can hold--62,000 in this particular case.  And I've begun to perfect what I call 'running the gauntlet'--making it from one end of the barn to the other, in between two rows of 4 dozen cows being milked--all of whom happen to have the wrong end pointed in your direction.  Yea, I've already taken a couple of indirect hits but that's what the Handi-wipes in my truck are for).

It's especially worthwhile when you run into the reaction that I did yesterday.  To know that families often pass the sets down to the next generation, and just seeing kids' reactions when I bring the books back at the end of the summer is almost worth it by itself.

 

Vivid recollection

Along the way I've also noticed that some of the Amish have uncanny memories.  The Amish as a whole tend to make careful markings of events and happenings, often inscribing names and dates in books and on gifts upon receiving them.  Amish genealogies are extensive and well-documented.  Amish homes often have framed embroidered hangings noting marriage dates and listing birthdays of all the children in a family.

Last summer in Elkhart County, Indiana, I ran into a bishop who had purchased the Family Bible Library set around 36 years ago, in what was likely the first year it was published.

He recalled the day the student salesperson who sold it to him delivered it--a delivery date which happened to fall just after the date of the funeral of one of his sons.  The bishop recounted how the kid was moved to tears when learning of the boy's passing. 

A few other Indiana Amish uncannily recalled the name of another student who'd sold them sets back in the early 80's--without having to think twice about it.  All of them seemed to remember him fondly, as an animated, funny fellow.  The guy must have made an impression--I can hardly remember the name of three people I met last week.

Yea, I've definitely got a cool job--this past week I visited a 'non-puppy mill'--a couple English bulldog moms and seven of the cutest and happiest-looking (and at $1450 a pop, most expensive) pups you've ever seen, stuffed myself with homemade Amish pizza twice, and learned 'boy it's really hot' and 'come eat' in PA Dutch.  And I got a few Amish guys speaking some Polish in return.

After a few more weeks of this, I will be returning to Holmes County, Ohio, for an entirely different experience, to work in an Amish shop.

New Order supper and a different sort of haystack

I had a chance to catch up with a couple more friends the Thursday before last--'Martin', a minister of the New Order Amish persuasion, his wife, 'Annie', and their neat kids.

My timing was perfect--suppertime!  A grinning Martin plunked me down in front of a 'haystack'--a potato-lettuce-chili-cheese- crumbled nachos concoction Annie had just prepared.  Yum.  (Yeah, I definitely had seconds).

As we dug into our haystacks, Martin eagerly questioned me about life in Poland.  Many Amish I know are fascinated to learn about faraway places.  I asked Martin if he'd ever flown, as unlike the Old Order, New Orders often allow air travel.  He actually hadn't.  Martin sticks pretty close to home, where he is involved in a produce and agriculture operation.

Martin explained that his congregation strongly encourages working at home.  It's okay if church members work out, but about 75% of their congregation has home-based occupation.  New Order Amish seem to have a strong tendency towards farming in particular, somewhat counter to the general Amish trend away from it. 

New Order Amish use the horse and buggy too, but are somewhat more liberal on the phone and electricity, often having it in the homes.  Dress is similar, with men's beards generally cropped a bit shorter and neater.

Sometimes Amish kids who are just learning English have a funny way of talking.  Martin's youngest boy is a good example.

He's a pretty excited kid, and quite outgoing, unusual for Amish children who usually sit silently when an outsider is around.  A number of times he jumped into the conversation Martin and Annie and I were having.

'We went fishing at 'Bill Miller's' and we saw a (switches to saying something in Dutch)...and then there was a turtle and he (Dutch again)...and then I yanked him off my finger!' 

This little guy didn't even break eye contact as he bounced between languages, just assuming I could understand both.  Martin patiently translated, filling in the gaps.

Getting into it

After knocking back a slice of Annie's homemade strawberry pie plus vanilla ice cream, Martin 'got into it' with me.  Another characteristic of New Order Amish is that they tend to lean a bit to the 'evangelizing' side, though compared to other evangelistic branches of Christianity, it's still pretty tame. 

I recalled that last time I was around we had a similar talk on the Anabaptists vs. the Catholics.  Martin likes to challenge me on my faith and I can appreciate that.  They are both very respectful of other religions, as Annie explained, 'don't get us wrong, we don't have anything against Catholics.  They can be very good people too.'

New Orders are also unusual in that they publish their beliefs in what you could call promotional literature.  Last time Martin gave me an explanatory tract on Amish belief.  Another New Order Amishman who recently completed a survey for me included two pamphlets in the envelope.

I don't consider the somewhat in-your-face approach to be self-righteous or off-putting.  I see it more as a reflection of the depth of their conviction, something to be admired. In any case, Martin enjoys ribbing me a bit.  I like to rib back.  I'll be stopping by again in September.